I’ve been lax in creating this blog, because I’m historically bad at keeping blogs, but I told many people that I would and so here I am, and here it is, we’ll see what becomes of it. I’m beginning it as I live in Nablus, Palestine, where I’ve been for ten days now and I’ll stay for another two months. I’m here working with Project Hope, a Palestinian grassroots organization that brings international volunteers to Nablus to teach English and art to Palestinian children and adults.

Project Hope is more wonderful that I thought it would be. The organization is truly Palestinian, as opposed to other NGO’s in Nablus; those that might be better funded, but operate based on the wishes of an international board of director’s, not the wishes of Palestinians themselves. Project Hope is run by and for Palestinians. It bases itself in the context of existing amidst an unjust occupation, and as such it opposes it and refuses to normalize the conditions it exists in. And it exists to offer skills and tools to Palestinians who are denied many opportunities because of the occupation. I was reminded all of this on my first day, during a short induction that all volunteers undergo; I was so tired and jetlagged I think I just stolidly nodded, but I actually feel strongly that this is the experience and environment that I was hoping for. The organization may be disorganized at times, the equipment may not be excellent, and the funds may be limited; but the fact that something effective and beautiful has been created out of the madness is what makes Project Hope truly Palestinian, and what has made me fall in love with it.

Nablus is still breathtakingly beautiful after ten days. It’s a sea of white buildings resting in-between two hills. I’m not sure, but it must be the acoustics created by the hills that allows for a really beautiful and echoing call to prayer that I’ve been obsessively recording on video during the sunset hours. We live in an old house with large balconies that overlook the northern hill; just beyond the top of the hill is an Israeli settlement. I still haven’t seen it but I don’t often forget that it’s there. I’m especially reminded when I take the briefest of showers, which come pretty sparsely these days. If we use too much water we will run out and not have our tanks refilled until the end of the week; this is because the supply is severely limited by the allocation of West Bank water. Of the water available from West Bank aquifers, Israel uses 73%, and Palestinians are allotted 17%. Israeli settlements use 10%. I imagine that in the settlements, they shower comfortably.

Palestinians in Nablus, living in this crumbling and beautiful city, are incredibly kind and hospitable. Food, embraces, broken English, opinions on Obama, and Palestinian anecdotes are given in great quantities. Their integrity and humility is inspiring. It creates a unique motivation to live up to the standards of veracity here, although I don’t think my own could ever compare.

I also have the company of several intelligent and energetic international volunteers, who I have no doubt will end up good friends.

For those of you who helped me to get here through generous donations on my kickstarter, I can’t thank you enough. Today, because of you, Project Hope has four new cameras and a new laptop, and there is still more money to use. My photography classes are just getting started, but soon I’ll have a separate blog or flickr page where we’ll upload the work we produce. I’m certain it will be beautiful.

I’ll continue to post my own thoughts and photos. I’ll try to keep it updated regularly.